Unless you stalk me on Facebook, you may not be aware that
most of my October was spent running around Germany. The RIAS Berlin Kommission
sends about 12 US journalists overseas twice a year to talk to folks familiar
with German history, government and culture.
We started in Berlin with about a week of breakfast talks,
tours and high security meetings that would have been impossible to get without
the program’s assistance. Every day gave me something new to consider or some
piece of information on Germany’s story of which I used to be incredibly
ignorant. The best part about spending extra time in Berlin though, was the
opportunity to experience all the things I didn’t get to do when I was there in
2011. The Bundestag, for example, holds more historical relevance on German
government in one building than many of the theaters and museums I visited on
my last trip. We climbed to the glass dome and saw a spectacular view of the
city and enjoyed a first class tour of the German senate.
Most folks explored Checkpoint Charlie and sections of the
Berlin wall, but the most striking moment in Berlin was our visit to the East
Side Gallery. For the last several years, artist Kali Alven has been working
with the German government to secure portions
of the Berlin wall for artists to
translate something negative into a positive new identity. It’s difficult as an
American to describe what the wall means to someone who lived within its
borders, but walking through the exhibit, it is hard to deny the power behind
it.
Many of our conversations throughout our time in Berlin
centered on getting a better understanding of just how recent the mistakes of
World War II and the Cold War are to Germans now. For us, it is a somewhat
distant memory, a moment in history that came, shocked, and faded away again. To
them, these memories are very fresh and still have a direct impact on political
and cultural decisions. My friend, Hannah, for example, explained to me that
many young Germans have chosen to delay marriage until much later than their
parents and grandparents, who raised them to enjoy a better life than what they
experienced behind the wall. This, by the way, is why I think the country’s
birth rate remains so dangerously low. Politically, although Germany maintains
the best economy in the European Union, the country steadfastly refuses to
utilize its military defense system as a general practice as a result of the
disastrous outcomes of its last two major military campaigns. This, I admit,
surprised me. Although I know Germany’s history well enough to understand, as an
American, I found the lack of military strength and prowess unusual.
Germany also displays a certain lack of national pride. Up
until her success at the World Cup in 2006, Germany never wore the flag, never
bragged about her accomplishments and no one ever said he was proud to be a
German. While this attitude is slowly changing, the reformation is very slow in
coming. Football jerseys are rising in popularity, young people are turning out
in drives for matches, but there seems to be a temperance to it that never
fully reaches patriotic pride.
In Leipzig, however, I did discover two triumphs of which
Germany can certainly be proud: that is the churches and the food. Despite a fee on church members throughout the
country that seems to be discouraging a whole generation against Christianity,
Germany seems to take a certain pride in religious architecture. Every church I
visited in Leipzig had significant historical impact. St. Thomaskirke housed an
organ designed by Johann Sebastian Bach, while St. Nikolaikirke marked the
gathering place for countless peaceful protests that changed the city’s
history. We spent most of the first day touring the churches and walking
Leipzig’s beautiful campus before joining RIAS alumni for dinner.
Dinner in Leipzig was its own unique experience. Since the
menu was completely in German and my translation skills are minimal at best, I
was forced to rely on the culinary expertise of the journalist seated next to
me. When the food arrived, I was as shocked as everyone else to discovered that
I had ordered a Bavarian delicacy known as a pig’s knuckle. The massive plate
of food was surprisingly fantastic, once I sliced my way through two inches of
crispy pork fat to discover the deliciously tender meat beneath it. This, my
friends, is something everyone must try once.
The next day, we took a two hour train ride over to Cologne,
home to one of the largest cathedrals I have ever seen. It took my breath away
from the outside, but the majesty and detail inside truly impressed me. We weren’t
able to stay long as a train strike forced us to leave early, but we did manage
to tour the local state television station, RTL.
This is where I began to
understand the distinct differences in American and German programming. What
impressed me was that, despite state sponsorship, very little of the actual
content is directly influenced by politics or the government. These stations also
moved beyond hard news into areas like entertainment, educational programming,
and youth shows. This level of thought and creativity was displayed at every
city state station we saw as well as the two federal stations. I don’t
personally think this system would work in the United States, but I enjoyed
seeing it play in a country where most people seem to appreciate the content,
despite being compelled to pay monthly dues for the programs.
Our last stop on the tour was Brusells. While technically a
Belgian city, it has a great deal of direct influence on the German political
and military sphere. The first full day was spent meeting with members of the
European Union, touring the facility, sitting in on press conferences and discussing
the latest issues facing the EU. Much of the first half of the day was old
information from my days at VOR, but once we got the press conference, things
started to look interesting. I discovered that not only does the EU offer free technical
broadcast services to members of the press, the organization is also open to
direct questions on any topic during daily press briefings.
Our last official meeting of the program was with NATO. This
was really a special opportunity for most of us since a briefing on this level
would be almost impossible without RIAS. After a rather intense security
screening, we were met by the press liaisons and escorted to some fascinating briefings
on NATO’s inner workings and updates on the organization’s international
relations with Russia.
For me though, the real highlight of the trip was Bruges.
The group spent our last evening there, and I still can’t get it out of my
head. The place really felt like Disneyland for adults.
We all took a boat tour of the
city before
walking towards the city square and listening to the bells play an evening
concert. RIAS made sure to send us off in style with a glorious farewell
dinner, which of course, included vast quantities of beer. It was one of those
nights that stays special even when the food and friends disappear.
It was a long trip, and I was naturally exhausted before arriving
home, but RIAS has certainly earned my respect for the professionalism displayed
during this fellowship. I think we all learned to truly appreciate Germany as a
country, but also gained a much better understanding of her history and
approach to the news. It’s an opportunity that, as a journalist, you really
hope comes along at least once.